Kaesong & DMZ: The Frontline of the Korean War

The southern-most city in the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea is the city of Kaesong just north of the Korean Demilitarised Zone, or DMZ, which has marked the division between north and south since the Korean War armistice was signed in 1953. The city, which was originally part of South Korea before the war, was spared much of the bombing during the conflict allowing the old city to be preserved to this day.

The most famous part of the DMZ is not far from Kaesong; the Joint Security Area is the site where the two sides stand face to face and visitors may get the chance to enter one of the three blue huts which span the border and ‘technically’ cross into South Korea.

Further down the DMZ, and only a short drive from Kaesong, is a military lookout where visitors can look over the man-made wilderness of the DMZ and potentially spot the infamous ‘Concrete Wall’ built by the Americans on the southern side of the border, something which has greatly dismayed the northern side as it is seen as a physical symbol of national division.

Highlights

Panmunjom, DMZ

Perhaps the most famous site in all of Korea, a visit to the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom is integral to understanding the Korean Peninsula as a whole, and North Korea in particular. A visit here also includes a stop off at the village where the armistice was signed which was been turned into a museum.

Kaesong Koryo Museum

Situated in the grounds of an old Confucian school, the museum displays various artefacts from the area from the Koryo dynasty period as well as hosting a small stamp exhibition, a great spot for grabbing small souvenirs and trinkets.

Tomb of King Kongmin

One of North Korea’s many UNESCO World Heritage sites and one of many royal tombs dotted around this region. The tomb was built for the 31^st King of the Koryo Dynasty, King Kongmin, who died in 1374. His Mongolian wife is also interred in the tomb.

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North West: A Land of Rivers, Mountains and Valleys

The North West of the DPRK is home to some of the country’s smaller, yet uniquely interesting cities as well as some of the most intriguing attractions in the country. The region is comprised of two provinces, South Pyongan Province & North Pyongan Province of which the capitals, Pyongsong and Sinuiju respectively, are both visitable by tourists.

The city of Pyongsong is not far north of Pyongyang and is a hub for the science and technology industry. Meanwhile, in the far north, the city of Sinuiju sits on the banks of the Amnok River border opposite the bustling Chinese city of Dandong. Both cities have their fair share of interesting attractions, from visiting local schools in Pyongsong to touring a cosmetics factory in Sinuiju and much more.

Perhaps the most famous site in the region is buried deep within the Myohyangsan Mountain Range; the International Friendship Exhibition. This stunning exhibition contains gifts from foreign leaders, governments and organisations all stored deep within the region’s mountains. A visit here is also an opportunity to hike through North Korea’s internationally famous natural landscape.

Highlights

International Friendship Exhibition

This stunning exhibition, deep in the mountains, houses the thousands of gifts sent to the President Kim Il Sung and General Kim Jong Il over the years. Whilst exact figures are unknown, some suggest the exhibition holds up to 220,000 gifts ranging from the usual to the very unusual. It’s also possible to hike the surrounding Myohyangsan mountain region.

Pyongsong

Not far north of Pyongyang, Pyongsong was founded in 1969 as the sci-tech centre for the whole country. There’s plenty to do in and around the city, including visiting the local schools, exploring the Konji-ri Revolutionary Site from where Kim Il Sung commanded his army during the Korean War and an original 6th-century Buddhist temple.

Sinuiju

This small city is the provincial capital of North Pyongan Province, sitting on the banks of the Amnok River which separates China and North Korea. Visitors entering the country by train will stop at the local Sinuiju station for a customs check before moving on, but for those visiting the city, the local Sinuiju Folk Park and Sinuiju Kindergarten are must-see attractions.

Anju

A rarely-visited city between Pyongsong and Myohyangsan, Anju is an industrial city set on the Chongchon river. Visitors will get a chance to see the ancient city walls as well as the beautiful Paeksang Pavilion, once considered the most beautiful in the region. An ideal rest stop on the way up to Mt. Myohyang.

Hoechang

Visiting this city is a very different experience from any other. Originally a base for the Chinese Volunteer Army during the Korean War, it is the resting place of Chairman Mao’s son who died during the conflict.

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East Coast: The DPRK’s Glistening Eastern Seaboard

The East Coast of North Korea is perhaps one of the most diverse and incredible parts of the country. In the south, the Kumgangsan region, known as the Diamond Mountain, dominates the landscape; mountains and valleys offer incredible hiking opportunities with a view of some of the best natural scenery in East Asia.

Moving northwards, the coastal city of Wonsan is a hub of activity. Not only is it a fully functioning city and an operational eastern seaport, Wonsan is the hub of North Korea’s first major foray into becoming an international tourism destination. The Wonsan Kalma Resort Project has seen the development of sandy beaches, a ski resort inland from the coast, and so much more. Along with this, the city is a tourist hotspot for local North Koreans so it’s a great opportunity to see locals enjoying their time off.

Even further north, the city of Hamhung, combined with its neighbour Hungnam, make up the DPRK’s second-largest urban area. A centre for the chemical industry, a visit to the Hungnam Fertiliser Factory gives a glimpse at the heavy industry which dominates the local economy in this city. From Hamhung, visitors can travel to see the Pujon Highlands, one of the ‘8 Wonders of Korea’.

Highlights

Jangdok Island & Lighthouse

A chance to look out over the East Sea (Sea of Japan). A walk out to the island makes for an enjoyable evening stroll and serves as a chance to chat with local fishermen who congregate on the island hoping for a good catch.

Songdowon Schoolchildren’s Camp

A real throwback to the days of the Soviet Union. The Schoolchildren’s Camp at Songdowon was built for Korean and international students to be taught about socialist values whilst also learning valuable life skills; imagine a kind of socialist scout camp. Amazingly, the camp is still fully operational!

Kuryong Waterfall

A trip to Kumgangsan would not be complete without a visit to the famous Kuryong waterfall. A round trip hike encompassing 8km will take you past this incredible natural wonder and give you a chance to take in some fresh air during your visit to Korea’s most stunning region.

Hungnam Fertiliser Factory

“Fertiliser is rice, and rice itself is communism!” is a quote from President Kim Il Sung when he visited this factory. A tour of this factory includes various different control rooms and facilities, as well as demonstrating the heavy industry which powers the national economy.

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South West: Where the DPRK Meets the West Sea

The DPRK’s two largest West Sea ports are located in the South West of the country. Nampo is the port city built to serve Pyongyang, located at the mouth of the Taedong River. Due to Nampo being a fully operational port city, there is little to do in the city itself, although just down the road sits one of the largest engineering marvels in the country, the West Sea Barrage. The surrounding area offers a pleasant mix of heavy industrial plants such as the Chollima Steelworks and the Tae’an Glass Factory as well as local collective farms, historical tombs and scenic lookouts, all open to foreign visitors.

The second major port on the West Sea is located at Haeju in the far south of the country. Due to its proximity to the Northern Limit Line (the de-facto North-South border in the West Sea) the city has been designated a ‘Frontline City’. Rarely visited by tourists, Haeju offers a glimpse of real-life in the DPRK as well as many historical sites dotted around the surrounding countryside.

The city of Sariwon is the provincial capital of North Hwanghae Province and a handy rest stop on the Unification Highway between Pyongyang and Kaesong. A stop here will likely include a chance to try some homemade ‘Makkoli’, a traditional Korean rice wine, and a walk up a hill to a lookout from where most of the city can be seen.

Highlights

West Sea Barrage

Built between 1981 and 1986, the West Sea Barrage is an 8km-long dam at the mouth of the Taedong River. It was built to provide fresh water to the surrounding regions as well as to irrigate local fields. It is considered one of the greatest engineering marvels in the DPRK.

Chollima Steelworks

A chance to visit an operational factory producing steel, although more importantly, this site is considered the birthplace of the Chollima Movement. A 1950s initiative enacted by Kim Il Sung to boost the national economy at ‘Chollima Speed’ (referring to a mythical winged horse present in Korean mythology).

Koryo Fortress

This fortress dates back to the Koryo dynasty, highlighting the historic military importance of the area surrounding Haeju. The fortress is built atop the 120-metre Suyang waterfall providing stunning views of the surrounding area. The region in which it is set, South Hwanghae, is often referred to as the ‘bread-basket of Korea’ due to its capacity for efficient agriculture.

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Mt. Paektu & Samjiyon: Korea’s Sacred Birthplace

Paektusan, the White Head Mountain, is the highest point on the entire Korean peninsula and sits on the border between the DPRK and China, where it is known as Changbaishan. The mountain which is, in reality, a supervolcano, has a large lake inside its caldera known as ‘Heaven Lake’. Paektu is one of the most important symbols of Korea in general, as well as North Korea in particular.

The mythology surrounding the mountain describes the birth of the first King of Gojoson, Dangun, being born at the mountain. In more recent times, Korean anti-Japanese guerrilla fighters operating in northern Korea used the mountain and surrounding area as a base of operations. One of the major tourist sites in the region is the Paektusan Secret Camp, where the General Kim Jong Il is said to have been born.

The region is reachable by charter flight into the nearby city of Samjiyon. The city has recently been renovated making it more hospitable to visitors with the construction of a new hotel and ski resort. The major attraction near the city is the Samjiyon Grand Monument, one of three ‘Grand’ monuments in the country. The monument is dedicated to Kim Il Sung’s anti-Japanese guerrilla operations during the 1930s and 40s.

Highlights

Mt. Paektu

A trip to this region will always be centred around a trip to the peak of Paektusan. Hop on the funicular railway and scale the rocky terrain up to the edge of Heaven Lake, looking out over the water to the border with China. The mountain, known as Changbaishan by the Chinese, is one of the most sacred sites in all of Korea – the home of the mythological leader Dangun of Korea, and more recently, the official birthplace of General Kim Jong Il.

Samjiyon Grand Monument

This monument is, in fact, comprised of numerous statues and monuments, all centred around a bronze statue of the President Kim Il Sung in his younger years, dressed in his military uniform.

Mt. Paektu Secret Camp

The official site of the birth of the second leader of the DPRK, the General Kim Jong Il. The secret camp at Paektusan was the headquarters of the anti-Japanese revolution. Many of the log cabins still remain at the site or have been recreated for the purposes of education and tourism.

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North East: Unseen North Korea

North-eastern North Korea is one of the least visited parts of the country by foreign visitors. The province of North Hamgyong is reachable primarily by flight into Orang Airport. From here, visitors can drive northwards to the provincial capital, Chongjin, the scenic beauty spot of Chilbosan, or the small city of Kyongsong where travellers can spend a day at the health spa, or admiring the views out over the East Sea.

Chongjin, known as the ‘City of Iron’ due to the prevalence of heavy industry in the city, is the primary destination for tourism to this region. The enormous Kimchaek Steelworks dominates the skyline, while the city’s harbour plays host to dozens of fishing boats coming and going every hour as they head out for work in the East Sea.

Outside of Chongjin, there are 2 major cities that foreigners can access – Hoeryong & Rason. The former is the birthplace of the wife of the President Kim Il Sung, Comrade Kim Jong Suk. Her birthplace is now a revolutionary site, and a bronze statue of Kim Jong Suk towers over the city centre. Rason, on the other hand, is not really a city at all, but two cities, Rajin & Sonbong. Together they form the ‘Rason Special Economic Zone’ or ‘Rason SEZ’. This area was created to experiment with a free market and shows a different side to North Korea that is very similar, yet completely different to the rest of the country. From Rajin, travellers can catch the international train to Vladivostok in Russia.

Highlights

Chongjin Trolley-bus

Why walk around the city when you could ride in style on one of Chongjin’s Trolley-buses? The network is the nation’s only trolley-bus system outside of the capital city, Pyongyang. The bus offers a unique way to travel the city, taking in a brief sense of everyday life in Chongjin.

Chilbosan Homestay

‘Mt.Chilbo’ or ‘Chilbosan’ means ‘Seven Treasures Mountain’ and is one of North DPRK’s most beautiful natural landscapes. On top of this incredible beauty, this is the only chance for foreigners to stay in local homes. The Chilbosan homestay is a must-visit for anyone looking to get a real understanding of daily life in North Korea.

Wangjaesan Grand Monument

North Korea only has 3 monuments considered ‘Grand Monuments’. One in Pyongyang, One in Samjiyon and one at Wangjaesan at the far north-eastern tip of the country. Accessible from Hoeryong, this monument stands out from its flat surroundings and sits right on the border with China. It was built to commemorate the 1933 Wangjaesan Conference.

Rason City Market

Experience a genuine marketplace in North Korea! Wander through the hustle and bustle as local traders sell domestic, and foreign goods (mostly exported from China) and pick up a souvenir or two.

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