Capital of Iran for 200 years, a visit to Tehran is a must for those who want to understand this fascinating country.
Tehran is a city of history, revolution, religion and the heart, not only of the country but of the Iranian people. Tehran is a city of contrasts with ancient history hidden behind modern buildings; a bustling, busy, traffic-filled, chaotic settlement surrounded by distant, often snow-capped, majestic mountains.
A city framed in the media as a dangerous religious fanatics playground, a walk around its centre will reveal something completely different.
Want to know a little more about Tehran? Then read on!
Country: Iran
Province: Tehran
Altitude: 900 – 1,830 metres
Population: 8,693,706 (Urban)
Area code: 021
Timezone: UTC+3:30
Climate: Semi-arid
Location
Tehran is located in central-northern Iran on the southern slopes of the Alborz mountains and reaches down into the Dasht-e-Kavir desert.
Due to its mountainous location, it has a varied altitude starting at 900 metres and rising to 1,830 metres.
History
Although today’s Tehran is a modern city, recent excavations in the city have uncovered a settlement dating back to the Neolithic period some 8000 years ago.
Tehran was once a small village situated in the province of Rey (Rhages); the village of Shahr-e-Reyth was located around 10km from present-day Tehran and was said to have farmed some of the best pomegranates in the region.
As time progressed, Shahr-e Reyth would grow into a small town seeing growth under the Parthians and the Sassanians.
Although it would experience some damage during the Arab invasion, Rey would be rebuilt during the Abbasid Caliphate and see governance throughout the Samanid, Ziyari, Buyid and Ghaznavid periods with its luck running out during the Seljuk rule when the Mongols swept across Persia in 1220.
The Mongolians did what Mongolians did best at that time, sacking the town and putting an end to the importance of Rey.
Although the settlement never recovered from its destruction, a new town gradually formed in the same region. Many refugees from across the region headed to the fertile slopes of the Alborz mountains and, within sight of Mt Damavand, Tehran was born.
By the 16th century, Tehran had grown into a prosperous yet picturesque settlement that would eventually catch the eye of Safavid King Tahmasb I.
King Tahmasb I instructed that Tehran should develop and, at his order, housing was improved, gardens were planted, and caravansaries were erected to offer shelter to visiting merchants. There were also improvements to the town’s defences with 114 watchtowers added to the outer walls.
Although successive Safavid kings would keep adding to Tehran’s defences, their enemy, the Qajars, would eventually win and in 1796 Agha Mohammed Kahn was crowned within the city’s walls and declared Tehran his capital; at that time home to a population of 15,000.
From then on, the city just kept growing.
Palaces were built, mosques and bazaars expanded, and Tehran seemed to keep a lot of its traditional architecture, style and charm. That is, until the 1950s when Tehran suddenly went through an intense period of urban development.
Traditional bricks and mortar made way for concrete and steel; from 1925 to 1970 the population would go from 210,000 to 4.5 million. As the city grew and expanded, so did the people’s ideas. Palaces got bigger for the Shah whilst urban living got tougher. The new streets and bazaars of Tehran grew ripe for revolution.
The Shah did try to make changes and look at new designs for the city but it was too little too late and along with many cities across Iran in 1979, the people of Tehran took to the streets and supported the Iranian revolution.
The Shah of Iran, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, was gone, and with him so ended 2,678 years of royal rule. Iran would become the Islamic Republic of Iran with Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini at the helm.
From 1979 however, it was not plain sailing for the city. Capital of a country shunned by the world and seen as an easy target by their aggressive neighbours, Iraq.
During the Iran-Iraq War, the city was the target of numerous SCUD attacks and bombing campaigns. Despite this, victory was Iran’s as they overcame the violence of the Iraqi military.
These days, Tehran has transformed into a sprawling modern capital, the concrete highrises and lack of urban planning mask much of the city’s remaining historical gems. The capital is crisscrossed by a spaghetti network of roads as well as serving as the transport hub of the nation.
Tehran has gone from village, town, city, capital to one of the world’s megacities. Its growth has led to new challenges such as pollution, transportation, and sanitisation.
Still, it is more interesting than ever, home to massive markets, museums, art galleries, palace complexes, and cultural centres for the discerning traveller.
What To See In Tehran
With a city as large and as old as Tehran, there are so many places to visit that we can’t list them all here, so in true Absolute Nomads style, we have listed our top picks:
The Den of Espionage (AKA Embassy of the United States, Tehran)
The Den of Espionage may not be everyone’s cup of tea, although if you are a certain age or a fan of the movie Argo it will be right up your street.
The events that occurred on the 4th November 1979 would make the US Embassy in Tehran famous; when militant students in support of the revolutionary leader, Ayatollah Khomeini, stormed and seized the building.
The capture of the embassy would lead to 52 American staff being held hostage for 444 days and the cessation of all diplomatic relations between Tehran and Washington to this day.
When visiting the embassy building, one will notice immediately the bright anti-US murals daubed all over the perimeter walls. This theme continues once inside the building as many internal rooms and walls are further decorated with anti-west art installations and paintings.
You’ll also have the opportunity to peer into soundproof conference rooms, peruse abandoned spy equipment, machinery and the famed hastily, but poorly, shredded secret documents.
Azadi Tower (Freedom Tower)
The 50-metre high Azadi Tower is, without doubt, Tehran’s most famed and iconic building. Designed by Iranian student Hossein Amanat in 1966, the tower would be completed in 1971 to mark the 2,500-year celebration of the Persian Empire.
Originally named the Shahyad Tower, the Azadi Tower boasts a basement museum that contains various ancient artefacts such as ancient cuneiform tablets, ceramics, and pottery.
As well as a rooftop viewing platform that is accessible via elevator or stairs, the platform offers impressive views over the city and the swirling traffic below.
Golestan Palace and Gardens
Dating back to the Qajar dynasty, the Golestan Palace is also known as the rose garden. This ornate, beautifully designed palace was the home of Iran’s kings.
During the Pahlavi era, it wasn’t so much a residence but used for official ceremonies where a little more pomp and splendour were needed. Golestan Palace consists of 17 buildings, including palaces, museums, and halls; its ornately arched ceilings and mirrored floors are a photographer’s delight.
One of the most notable features is the marbled throne which has seen the coronation of many Iranian kings, the last being Reza Shah of the Pahlavi dynasty in 1925.
Grand Bazaar, Tehran
Tehran’s Grand Bazaar may not be as old as many visitors believe as much of the bazaar has been added to or rebuilt over the years, although there are still some sections that date from 400-200 years ago.
The history of the bazaar may be overestimated, but the power of the workers there, known as Bazaaris, should not be. The Bazaaris were one of the major forces behind the Iranian revolution—spurred into action by the Shah’s dislike of the traditional Bazaar.
These merchants, traders and even bankers are a powerful driving force in Iran. History and politics aside, Tehran’s Grand Bazaar is a great place to head not only for a slice of local life but also for handicrafts, gifts and more.
How To Get To Tehran
Airport
For most visitors to Iran, this will be the most common method of entry into Tehran. Pre-revolution, Mehrabad airport to the west of the city would handle all flights; however, these days, Imam Khomeini International Airport has taken on the responsibility of most international flights.
You may have guessed, but there are no flights from America but a plethora of options from Europe and even more from most middle eastern countries.
Mehrabad airport handles most of the internal flights and is located close to the city but be warned, although Imam Khomeini International Airport is a significant improvement on its predecessor by road, it can take 1 ½ hours to reach Tehran city centre (we recommend the metro).
Bus
Tehran is the transit hub for Iran with roads snaking across the country to all provinces, meaning that Tehran is easily entered and exited by bus.
Buses are a cheap way to travel, although journeys can be long with few breaks. When travelling by bus, be sure to do your homework as by last count there are four major bus terminals dotted around Tehran.
Train
Across Iran, the railway is improving with some high-speed services as well as travel on the Trans-Iranian express.
There is a weekly service to and from Istanbul on Trans-Asia Express; this 2,968 km journey takes three days and, if you can get a visa, it is a real adventure.
Road
With border-crossings from Turkey (via Dogubayezit), the Republic of Azerbaijan (via Baku/Astara), Turkmenistan (via Ashkhabad or Sarakhs), and Pakistan are accessible by road.
Special permission may be required, but driving across this vast Persian expanse is possible, and all roads lead to Tehran. Be warned though, safety should be taken seriously, always wear a seatbelt and don’t drive at night.
Some locals also joke that driving the width of Iran is quicker than driving across the width of Tehran.
Top 5 Travel Tips
Copy your Passport
Take a copy of your passport as Iran (Tehran) is one of those countries where the hotel will take and hold on to your passport until you check out.
You may not feel comfortable, but it happens, and when you’re out and about, it’s one less thing to worry about.
Forget the toilet just go to the WC!
Yes, Iran is a country where if you ask for the toilet, you’ll receive a blank stare, but say WC and the lights will flicker, and you’ll immediately be directed to your nearest convenience.
More WC Advice
While on the subject of WCs, toilets and conveniences, do not forget to always carry toilet paper in some form and be prepared for the infamous squat loo – enemy to the old, infirm and just about anyone from the west.
Embrace Iranian Hospitality
Iranians are surprisingly friendly to visitors from afar, so don’t be surprised if you befriend someone on the street.
They may wish just to talk, show you around, even pay for your food or drinks and show you their house. Use common sense but be prepared to trust. You can always check with your tour leader or guide (not everything is as the media paints it!).
Follow Dress Code
Iran is an Islamic country, so there is a certain dress code to follow; shorts, vest-tops, tight-fitting clothes are out, and hijabs (headscarves), trousers, and loose clothing are in.
Yes, ladies are indeed expected to cover their heads upon leaving the plane, but any coloured headscarf is acceptable, and there are many ways to wear the scarf.
Although the rules for men may not be as strict, shorts are a no-no, as are muscle tops and vests. Knees and shoulders must be covered, but there are many variations.