1. Day 1 Dushanbe City Tour

   We’ll meet in the heart of beautiful Dushanbe. There will be a chance for a short rest before we head into the city for some exploration.

   The beautiful Victory Park is our first stop. Located on the hills above Dushanbe, the park was built in 1975 to commemorate the Soviet victory in the Great Patriotic War of 1941-1945; this Soviet-built monument offers excellent views of Dushanbe.

   As we continue our day, we’ll be sure to criss-cross and walk along sections of Rudaki & Somoni Avenues, not just two of Dushanbe’s main streets but also home to beautiful Soviet-era tree-lined boulevards and many of the city’s more picturesque buildings. From Somoni Avenue, we’ll reach the imposing 13-metre tall Ismaili Somoni Monument; a fantastic statue of the ancient king stands on the former site of Lenin. It is said that Somoni’s crown contains 10 kilograms of Tajik gold. Behind the Ismaili Somoni Monument stands one of Dushanbe’s most impressive buildings, the  9 storey 45,000 square-metre National Library of Tajikistan.

   The National Library of Tajikistan looks out across the beautiful Rudaki Park, named after the Persian poet Rudaki who penned over a million poems and whose statue stands proudly at the centre of this leafy sanctuary. We’ll make our way across the park to visit two of the city’s newer attractions; first, the Dushanbe Flagpole, a 165-metre giant that used to be the world’s tallest until recently. Our next stop, the Tajikistan National Museum, which gives us the chance to learn a little more about the history of Tajikistan and its importance in the region.

   After a delicious lunch, it’s on with the tour. Our first visit is Kokhi Navruz (The World’s Largest Tea House), a massive, opulently designed building that houses a leisure centre and numerous restaurants, shopping areas, and even a cinema. Visits are by appointment only, and you may need to wait, but it’s worth it. The fantastic on-site guides will show you around the core meeting halls used for hosting foreign dignitaries.

   Following our tour of Dushanbe we’ll head back to the hotel before venturing to a nearby restaurant for dinner.

    

   Accommodation: Hotel Vatan

   Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

2. Day 2 From Dushanbe to Bokhtar

   Today we’ll head south, departing the leafy Dushanbe suburbs out onto the rolling hills of Tajikistan. We’re headed to the southern city of Bokhtar.

   Bokhtar may be a little difficult to find on a map; in recent history, it has had four names Kurgan-Tube, Qurghonteppa and Kurganteppa. During the period of the Tajik Civil War (5 May 1992 – 27 June 1997), Bokhtar saw some of the worst fighting, and it is this very reason that many Tajiks are not too happy with the Taliban retaking control south of the border. It was the Taliban that partially bankrolled and promoted this bloody civil war. These days, Bokhtar has been through somewhat of a resurgence, the third-largest city in the country and labelled one of the most exciting to visit by many tourists.

   On our way south, we’ll pass through the Qubodian District and the town of the same name; here, the Oxus Treasure (one of the British Museum’s prized exhibits) was discovered in the 1870s. Replicas of the treasure are on show in the National Museum in Dushanbe, which you’ll have a chance to view on our return.

   We will eventually reach the province and city of Shahritus, stopping for a brief look at this small town and before visiting the village of Aiwanj, said to be the hottest place in Tajikistan.

   From the village, we will hopefully get a little closer to the border area and catch our first glimpse of Afghanistan, in particular the province of Balkh, where we’re unlikely to see much life as this enormous area is dominated by desert. We’ll also see the famed Amudarya River, once known as the Oxus; this mighty river flows through Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan into the dwindling Aral Sea.

   After our Afghan excursion, we will make a final stop at the 44 Springs before checking into our hotel for dinner and well-deserved rest. The 44 Springs are, as the name suggests, a series of natural springs forming an oasis in this parched, arid environment. Running at a constant 14 degrees, they offer a welcome break from the hot sun.

    

   Accommodation: Hotel Bokhtariyen

   Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

3. Day 3 A View Over Kunduz

   Today we are up and out back on the road as we head further up the Amudarya River to the province of Qumsangir. In Qumsangir, we reach the Panj River and look across to the Afghan province of Kunduz.

   Kunduz is the most ethnically diverse province in Afghanistan and home to one of the busiest border crossings with Tajikistan, the Tajik–Afghan bridge at Panji Poyon. Financed by the US Army Corps of Engineers, the bridge ironically helps supply Afghanistan with much-needed fuel and other necessities. We may well catch sight of the white flags of the Taliban raised during the capture of the border crossing in June 2021.

   Once we have completed a little more exploration, we will head back to the town of Qumsangir to explore what goods are available in the local border market.

   From here, we’ll drive back to the city of Bokhtar, which is where we’ll stay tonight. With enough time to spare, we will have a look around this growing city located on the banks of the Vakhsh River and the principal tributary of the Amudarya River.

   In Bokhtar, we’ll be sure to visit Rahmon Murchaev Park to view the Soviet War Memorial. We will also call at the Civil War Monument to learn a little more about the darker days of this beautiful country and the influences across the border which led to the war.

   Time permitting, we will visit the Buddhist Monastery of Ajina-Tepa, listed as a site of outstanding universal value by UNESCO. This 7^th Century Buddhist remnant reflects how Buddhism spread through the region hundreds of years ago.

    

   Accommodation: Hotel Bokhtariyen

   Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

4. Day 4 A Journey Along the Panj to Qal'ai Khumb

   Today is an early start. We have a long but exciting drive ahead of us as we leave the flatlands of Tajikistan and work our way over high passes and into the narrow valleys of the Panj River. Our destination for today is the town of Qal’ai Khumb.

   As you may expect, like many Tajik towns and cities, Qal’ai Khumb has more than one name; ‘Darvaz’ is its second moniker, the name of the small state that Darvaz used to be the capital of. Qal’ai Khumb is a beautiful settlement with a natural small-town feel, nestled in a deep valley just a stone’s throw from the Afghan border.

   As we journey, we’ll be sure to make a few stops photographing the small villages that nestle on the Afghan side of the river. We will also stop at a few of the Tajik villages and, if we’re lucky, find out what the locals think of the new government on the other side of the river.

   Once we arrive in Qal’ai Khumb, there are a few things to do;

   Tajikistan–Afghanistan Friendship Bridge opened in 2004; this crossing used to be popular with the locals, especially as the town hosted one of the Afghan Tajik cross-border markets. Operation of the market has since paused until the two countries can sort out their differences.

   For those with enough energy, it’s possible to climb the hills surrounding Qal’ai Khumb to gain a better vantage point to peer across the river into Afghanistan or to admire the towering snow-capped mountains surrounding us.

   This evening, make sure you are back with the group as we have the opportunity to experience Tajik hospitality. Tonight we will sample some traditional regional food and have the chance to interact with our hosts; now’s your time to ask what life is really like on this hugely significant border.

    

   Accommodation: Karon Palace

   Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

5. Day 5 Khorogh: Capital of the Pamirs

   Another day, another drive, and if you thought the journey yesterday was beautiful, then today we have a real treat in store as we work our way along the Panj River. Following in the footsteps of explorers, ancient and modern, and hardly ever letting Afghanistan leave our view, we’ll trundle along the mountain roads on the way to our destination.

   Our destination for today is the city of Khorogh, the capital and thriving heart of the Pamirs, located on not only a confluence of rivers but also on a significant mountain crossroads. A poor, yet interesting region, the city was once one of the pawns in the Geat Game when, in the late 19^th century, the Emir of Bukhara, Shah of Afghanistan, Tsar of Russia and King of Great Britain vied for control of this significant settlement. The Russians would emerge victorious in this area, cementing their claim by constructing a fortress that would also seal the northern Afghan Border along the Panj River.

   For many travellers, Khorogh offers a welcome break from their journey across the harsh terrain of the Pamirs. For us, it’s also a perfect stop just across from the Afghan border and yet another location where the famed cross-border markest used to be located.

   As we make our way from Qal’ai Khumb to Khorogh, we will travel along winding mountain passes, past small market villages and secluded farmsteads. We’ll be sure to stop for photographs and to meet locals where possible. Our route runs parallel to the road on the Afghan side, which clings to steep-sided cliffs, cuts through lush green valleys, past both rich and poor looking settlements.

   Upon arrival in Khorogh, we’ll check into our hotel for a well-deserved rest and a drink next to the roaring Gunt River before enjoying a pleasant evening meal.

    

   Accommodation: Hotel Zafar

   Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

6. Day 6 Khorogh City Tour and Optional Visit to Ishlkashim

   After our adventure to get to Khorogh, today we’ll start a little more leisurely with a visit to the local Khorog Bazaar. The Bazaar is a typical central Asian affair crammed with fresh fruit, vegetables, milk products and various other wares; not commonly visited by tourists, we may be as much a spectacle to the locals as the colourful traders are to us.

   From the Bazaar, we will call at the Ismaili Jamatkhana Centre not only an absolute architectural delight but the centre for Isma’ilism in the region. Once in the Ismaili Centre, we will learn a little more about this fascinating sub-sect of Shia Islam. We will also have the unique opportunity to ask their opinion on the recent political change in Afghanistan visible from the ornate terraced grounds around us.

   From stunning building design, we climb even higher as we drive high above Khorogh to visit the beautiful botanical gardens. A little unkempt, the Khorogh Botanical Gardens were begun in the 1940s as a project of the Soviet Union to observe the survival rate of plants at altitude and the associated climatic conditions. Not only do the gardens now boast of over 2,300 species of trees and plants and a beautiful residence fit for a president, but they also afford mesmerizing views over the city.

   From the gardens, we drive back down into the city for a spot of lunch but not before visiting Victory Park and its Soviet monuments celebrating a different era in history.

   After lunch, you have a choice, for those who wish to stay and relax in Khorogh, you can explore a little more of the city or soak up the ambience enjoying a drink by the river. For those who are happy with more driving and adventure, we’ll head even further along the Panj River and the border with Afghanistan. Our destination is the town of Ishlkashim, located opposite the Afghan town of the same name. Both Ishlkashims mark the entrance to the stunning Wakhan Corridor.

   On our journey, we will stop for pictures of where the Panj River is almost at its narrowest you can literally throw a stone into Afghanistan.

   If time permits, we’ll also visit some of the natural springs found along the way and even see if we can reach the legendary 2^nd Century Khakha Fortress built to protect the early Silk road. Following our short foray into the mouth of the Wakhan Corridor, we’ll turn around and return to Khorogh for a welcome evening meal.

    

   Accommodation: Hotel Zafar

   Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

7. Day 7 Return to Qal'ai Khumb

   Today, we’ll start out return journey, back the way we have come, returning to the beautiful town of Qal’ai Khumb.

   Once we leave Khorogh, we’ll stop for some quick photos of the airport, said to be one of the most dangerous in the world; at one time, Aeroflot pilots were paid extra for venturing to this far-flung piece of tarmac. With no escape corridor, pilots would have to navigate the mountain valley, criss-crossing over the Tajik and Afghan borders. Needless to say, at the current time, flights are suspended.

   As we return along the meandering M41 Highway, we will again make stops for pictures looking out over Afghan villages as well as stopping at some Tajik settlements, such as the village of Rushon. Rushon is a typical Tajik village with a small higgledy-piggledy market bazaar at its heart. Known by most locals as Vamar, Rushon offers us a break from our drive and an excellent opportunity to meet and mix with locals a little of the beaten track.

   The village of Rushon and the surrounding area have long lived in the shadow of the sleeping dragon. Sarez Lake was created in 1911 when a giant earthquake caused a massive landslide, forming the world’s highest natural dam. It has been said that the remote dam is unstable and could fail in the event of another quake; inhabitants of the region hope that the 16,000 cubic kilometres of water will be held back for another 100 years at least.

   We will continue on, stopping for lunch on our journey before passing through the patchwork of green fields and farms that seem to cling to the base of high mountains. The clays, soils and glacial waters provide for these fertile terraces. With the Hindu Kush disappearing behind us, we’ll eventually arrive back to the warm embrace of Qal’ai Khumb.

   Once back at our favourite Tajik Hotel, we will rest and relax before heading for fresh shashliks and draught beer in a restaurant next to the raging mountain river of Obikhumbou.

    

   Accommodation: Karon Palace

   Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

8. Day 8 Adventurous Return to Dushanbe

   As with many days on this tour, we’re up and out early this morning to make the most of the journey. Retracing some of our earlier adventures, we’ll follow the Panj River, eventually saying goodbye to this historical waterway and to the Afghan Border, moving back into Tajkistan’s hilly heartland.

   Passing through the city of Kulab, we’ll be sure to stop visit the beautiful museum, a mosaic of Lenin and enjoy a hearty lunch. Then it’s on with the tour, the scenery may not be as stunning as what have seen over the past few days, but we still have some treats in store.

   The fantastic Khulbuk Fortress, built in the 9th – 12th century AD, was once a governor’s palace. The fortress has been shortlisted by UNESCO as a place of ”outstanding universal value to the world”. It may have been a little heavily renovated, like many ancient remains in Tajikistan, although it’s still an interesting stop.

   From Khulbuk Fortress, we’re on the home straight as we make the final drive to Dushanbe but not before stopping at the town of Norak. Situated in the Vakhsh River, construction on this town began in 1960 at the same time as the mighty Nurek Dam. The town has changed very little since the period of the Soviet Union, and we’ll have a wander around this time capsule of a place and even catch a glimpse of the resident Lenin statue who still proudly watches over this comunistical habitation.

   Upon our return to Dushanbe, we will check into our hotel for some rest or a well deserved cup of coffee in one of the nearby coffee shops.

   However, don’t wander too far, as tonight we have a meal with one of the many Afghan families that fled the Taliban. We will, of course, learn a little of their plight and have the opportunity to ask a few questions.

   As it as our last night together as a group, we will after dinner enjoy one last drink together.

    

   Accommodation: Vaatan Hotel

   Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

9. Day 9 Departure Day

   Today is, unfortunately, the day of the tour. We hope we’ll all part ways and head to our various corners of the globe, a little more educated and well-travelled.

   For those that wish to stay a little longer, should you want to, your tour leader will be there to take a walking tour of some of the sights around Dushanbe.

   From our hotel, we will walk down Rudaki Street to Dushanbe’s Central Park, stopping for photos at the Monument of Ismaili Somoni, which is situated on the site of the old Lenin statue. We will then walk past the enormous National Library into the beautiful Rudaki Park; we will then hike on to the entrance of the National Museum. After catching a glimpse of the 2^nd largest flagpole in the world (we cant really miss it), we will then stroll further into the city to view some of the capital’s Soviet architecture. After which we return to our hotel.

   If you wish for extra nights accommodation, these can easily be arranged for you.

    

   Included Meals: Breakfast

    

   END OF TOUR

Accommodation on the Afghan Borderlands Tour