Travelling to North Korea
The start of any trip into the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (North Korea) begins either at an airport or a North Korean train station.
Flying into Korea comes with its own set of unique experiences, but taking the train is the best way to see North Korea’s stunning natural landscape in person. The train travels 225km (140mi) through North and South Pyongan Province, providing a glimpse into North Korea’s rural countryside.
From the border bureaucracy of Chinese customs to the shining lights of Pyongyang, the train is a really special way to begin or end your visit to North Korea.
Pyongui Line
One of the few lines on the network open to foreigner travellers, the Pyongui Line stretches from Sinuiju, on the banks of the Amnok (Yalu) River, to Pyongyang, the capital city of North Korea.
The line originally opened in 1906 as the Kyongui Line, connecting the capital, Kyongsong (modern-day Seoul) with the Chinese border at Sinuiju. At the time, Korea was a single country; 4 years later, the Japanese invaded and occupied the peninsula.
This would eventually lead to the Second World War and the division of the country in 1945.
The two new countries, North Korea and South Korea, both took control of the sections of the Kyongui Line that fell on their side of the border.
South Korea operates the line between Seoul and Dorasan station, which technically sits inside the Korean Demilitarised Zone (DMZ). Today, it’s called the Gyeongui Line (taking the same name as its predecessor, but with the modern Latin translation).
North Korea split its line in two at Pyongyang. The southern section was renamed ‘Pyongbu’ since, theoretically, after reunification, the line would run from Pyongyang to Busan.
The northern section was renamed ‘Pyongui’ connecting Pyongyang with Sinuiju. It’s this line which serves as the arterial route for foreigners visiting Pyongyang from China.
The line, whilst interesting on its own, is also very symbolic of the division of Korea. Local travellers can travel from the northern Korean border with China, all the way down to Kaesong near the DMZ. Travellers from South Korea can board the train just a few kilometres south of Kaesong and travel the rest of the line to Seoul. Although nobody can cross the 4km in between. At least, not yet!
Sinuiju Station
After passing through Chinese customs in Dandong, you’ll board the North Korean train bound for Pyongyang. But first, a quick trip over the Amnok (Yalu) river to Sinuiju Chongnyon Railway Station.
For many travellers, Sinuiju is the first chance to get a brief taste of North Korea. Having gone through Chinese customs in Dandong, it’s now time to pass through immigration and customs on the DPRK side.
Often, there’s a chance to leave the train and hang around on the platform for a quick leg-stretch. Although there’s no way to leave the station and explore Sinuiju properly (at least at this stage of the tour), the station itself is very impressive.
As with most public buildings in the country, the station building is adorned with portraits of the President Kim Il Sung and the General Kim Jong Il. However, before too long, it’ll be time to reboard the train and start the 6-hour journey to the capital.
What To Do & What To See
As the train pulls out of Sinuiju Station, there’s a brief chance to see the city we’ve just passed through. Sinuiju is the capital of North Pyongan Province and the gateway for most freight being imported or exported between China and the DPRK.
The most striking additions to the landscape, as we trundle towards Pyongyang, will be the various slogans, monuments and murals which litter the countryside throughout North Korea.
Most cities, towns and villages in North Korea will have murals depicting the revolutionary activities of the Great Leaders or images showing the leaders performing on-the-spot guidance in the area. Either way, these murals are often striking and contrast with the green rolling hills that make up this part of the country.
As we make our way towards the capital passing towns and villages, why not grab a spot of lunch in the buffet car?
We can’t guarantee that every North Korean train will be equipped with a buffet car, but more often than not, this is a great spot to enjoy a Korean-style lunch whilst taking in the view out the window.
For those nervous about the Korean cuisine on the tour, this is a great opportunity to test your palate. Kimchi, Radish, Korean Pork, Noodles and much more. During your trip, you’ll likely get to choose between a couple of options each night for dinner, so it’s worth exploring the local delicacies on the train so you’re ready to make decisions later; or, if you’re on the way out of the country, why not grab a goodbye lunch and enjoy a plate of your favourites one last time before returning to China?
If you’re lucky, you might even get a can of North Korea’s own version of Coca-Cola or Sprite, complete with near-identical packaging; so, keep an eye out!
Pyongyang Station
Pyongyang Railway Station sits in the heart of the city and serves as the gateway to North Korea for all those entering the country by rail. Most international trains from Sinuiju don’t make any stops between the departure and destination, so Pyongyang will be the first chance you get to stretch your legs since the customs checks.
The current Pyongyang station building was built in 1958 during the period of post-war reconstruction. Prior to the reconstruction, the first station was built by the Japanese in 1920s during their occupation of Korea.
Pyongyang Railway Station is one of the major gateways into North Korea for foreign tourists, along with Pyongyang Sunan International Airport. The rail journey between Sinuiju and Pyongyang has been travelled by tourists from all over the world, as well as locals traversing the extensive North Korean Train Network (Korean State Railway).
Foreign tourists are also permitted to travel from the station to the Russian border at Rajin in the Rason Special Economic Zone as part of dedicated tours.