Go to any coastal area in the world and you will witness a history of man working with the ocean, and Iran is no different.
Iran‘s coastline stretches from the east, where Jiwani Bay is shared with Pakistan. From here, the coastline snakes around through the Gulf of Oman, around the narrow Strait of Hormuz and north into the Persian Gulf.
It is this coastline that has seen the evolution of the beautiful Lenj, a vessel that looks perfect, gently rocking upon the turquoise waters of the Persian Gulf, a boat so ingrained with the local culture it has sailed into UNESCO’s ‘List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding’.
What is a Lenj?
The Iranian Lenj is a hand-built, ocean-going vessel used by locals to traverse the Persian Gulf Strait of Hormuz. It’s used for fishing, trade, transport and even pearl diving!
Origins of the Lenj
As with many ancient crafts, it isn’t easy to pinpoint the origin of the Lenj, although well-preserved coins and stamps from the Achaemenid dynasty (700 to 330 BC) indicate that inhabitants on the Persian Gulf have been using the Lenj for at least 3,000 years.
What makes sourcing a date difficult is that traditionally there are no plans or blueprints for vessel design; the builder retains these in his head and the design is passed down from generation to generation.
Range
Since the 1950s Lenjes have been constructed with no sail, instead powered by a modern motor. However, this wasn’t always the case; traditionally, an Iranian Lenj would navigate under sail. There are ancient accounts of Iranian Lenjes travelling from Persia to the Roman Empire, Zanzibar (Africa) and Kolkata (India).
Traditional Lenj Construction
To build a full-size Lenj takes five or six men approximately two years. Each vessel is a unique wooden marvel built according to the master builder’s imagination. As previously mentioned, there will be no construction plan or blueprint, just a knowledge of the vessel passed on through generations.
The first step will be to lay down the wooden frame – for this, Walnut, Teak, and Oak are preferred as they are tough timbers and resistant to moisture. Next, the skeletal structure is covered with panels using wood from the Teak or Indian Sai tree.
Waterproofing the Lenj is done using a technique called Hanie Kalfat Koobi. The Hanie Kalfat Koobi technique involves soaking cotton fibres in either coconut or sesame oil before driving them into any joint or gap on the boat that may leak. After filling the gaps with cotton fibre, the hull will be coated in tar to add another level of waterproofing.
Traditionally, one more level of waterproofing is added using oil from a shark’s liver; this will protect the boat and give a distinctive red tinge.
Lenj Culture
Traditionally, being a crewmember aboard a Lenj was considered a privilege, with the captain often becoming one of the most respected people in the village. The captain would be a skilled man, able to forecast the weather by the wind, water, and cloud conditions. He could also navigate by the sun, stars, and moon.
To be a deckhand would mean that you would learn a skill and maybe one-day captain your own Lenj. Cleaning, cooking, handling the craft, carrying goods, and fishing were all the skills a deckhand would need to master, making them major family breadwinners in secluded coastal towns and villages.
The Lenj itself was, and still is, considered almost holy, with all sailors removing their shoes, treating their vessel like a temple. There are traditional stories involving monsters, mermaids, lost love’s and battles on far of shores passed back to locals from Lenj crewmembers.
Songs and sea shanties are still sung today, known as Neymeh. There is a song for almost every Lenj building and sailing process, including launching, sailing, and even unfurling the sail.
The Forgotten Lenj
Like many countries globally, as Iran modernises, many handicrafts and arts are being ignored; the art of Lenj construction and sailing is one of these.
In Iran, as with the rest of the world, young people are choosing the internet over fishing nets, sailing the world wide web and not the ocean. Looking for a job in the modern age means that fathers have no one to pass on their family knowledge. Alternatives such as metal and fibreglass hulls are easier, cheaper and quicker to make or import. The Lenj is slowly becoming a disappearing relic of a romanticised bygone age, sailing into Iran’s history books with Cyrus, Darius, and Xerxes the Great. A grand vessel dating from a grand age when much of the globe had still to be explored.
But all is not lost! As the world becomes smaller, we have the chance to travel to these far flug parts of the world and experience their culture, religion and history. UNESCO has a goal to preserve such crafts, and in 2011 UNESCO inscribed the Lenj to its ‘List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguard’.
The Future of the Lenj
With money, education, and extra resources being channelled into Lenj construction and related projects, there is still hope for these beautiful vessels. As tourists begin to search out something new, these seafaring crewmembers can once again look at heading to sea, not to catch fish but tourists! Transporting Iran’s eager visitors out onto the turquoise waters of the Persian Gulf.
Lenj Glossary
Jahāz: The original name for the Lenj.
Lenj: Originated from the English word launch, which is itself from the Portuguese lancha meaning small barge.
Galafs: Lenj Workers
Kalfat Koobi: The process of waterproofing the boat with oil-soaked fibres
Neymeh: A collection of work songs every sailor knew to sing while working under the shining sun on the deck
Nakhoda: Lenj Captain
Jashow: Lenj Deckhand
Kamal: An ancient tool for navigation
Galafan: Name of Galafi Builders
Interested in joining us on a voyage over the crystal waters of the Persian Gulf? Join our Unseen Iran Tour which includes a day-long expedition onboard a traditional Iranian Lenj!