From a small village, to a Soviet icon, and finally becoming a national capital, Dushanbe maybe not be the oldest city but it has quite a tale to tell.
Stalinabad is a beautiful city set in luxuriant parks and gardens situated on the steep terrace overlooking the flood lands of the river Dushanbe Darya and surrounded by magnificent snow-capped mountains of the Hissar range.
Moscow Foreign language publishing house, 1954
Location
Surrounded by the snow-capped mountains of the Hissar mountain range, Dushanbe sits in the Hissar Valley in Tajikistan’s far west.
Dushanbe is located on the confluence of two rivers, the Varzob and the Kofarnihon. The Varzob runs from the beautiful valley of the same name whilst the Kofarnihon is one of the major tributaries of the famed Amu Darya (Oxus) River. At an elevation of around 820 metres above sea level, Dushanbe has a mild-weathered spring feel to it for much of the year.
History
As the nation’s capital, the history of Dushanbe is short; however, its history as a bustling market village dates back many hundreds of years, predating the communist-guided hands that marked its future as Tajikistan’s capital in 1924.
Before 1924, Dushanbe was known as Dushanbe, as it is today, which means Monday in Persian, so named for its weekly market which was an important event in the region.
After the Soviet Union seized control of the region, it was decided that Dushanbe would be the capital, so this small village underwent a significant transformation.
Everything needed to transform a village into a capital city was brought in on planes, trains and automobiles. Over the next five years, schools, universities, accommodation, and museums were built. Eventually, the name was changed to Stalinabad in 1929.
By 1961, Stalin was long gone, and Stalinabad won back its simplistic, but perfect, ‘Dushanbe’ moniker as De-Stalinisation swept through the union. However, the construction continued as the city kept growing not only for Tajiks but, as was common in the Soviet Union, for people from all across the USSR who relocated to the Tajik SSR. Dushanbe saw an influx of Germans, Siberians, and even Koreans.
On the 9th of September 1991, Dushanbe became the capital of an independent Tajikistan. With the Union gone, many of Dushanbe’s foreign occupants returned to the four corners of the former USSR.
Unfortunately, Dushanbe’s foray into independence was off to a rocky start; 1992 saw the start of a bloody civil war that would last until June 1997. Dushanbe didn’t escape unscathed as it changed hands numerous times between the various warring factions. There were, of course, casualties, but the city avoided the heavy shelling that occurred in some regions.
After 1997 however, Dushanbe, and Tajikistan itself, settled into a new normal, slowly modernizing and growing. Today Dushanbe is a far cry from that small Monday market village that existed 100 years ago.
Sites
Dushanbe has quite a lot on offer for a relatively small city, so much in fact that we are unable to incorporate it all in this humble blog. We have included what we feel are the real unmissable highlights.
Rudaki Park
This leafy city-centre park is the perfect spot to shelter from the sun on a summers day. It was named after the Persian Rudaki who not only penned over a million poems but was also an accomplished singer and musician often referred to as the founder of classical Persian literature.
Rudaki’s statue, fittingly, takes centre-stage in this city-centre gem. Rudaki Park offers a relaxed feel to any visitor during the holiday period. There is also a small stage within the park that showcases local acts on major public holidays (don’t expect Rudaki but prepare for Tajikistan’s answer to Tina Turner, and you’ll be fine!)
Tajikistan National Museum
The Tajikistan National Museum is a grandiose modern build that can’t be missed as it is:
a) Located next to the world’s second-largest flagpole
b) Has a giant cone sticking out of the roof with the national emblem emblazoned on it.
Once inside, you’ll find it is a museum of ups and downs depending on your interests some boring, some not. Our personal recommendation is to pay a visit to the gifts given to the Tajik president from other world leaders and the 14-metre statue of the Buddha; however, it is a copy of the one located in the Museum of Antiquities.
Victory Park
We’ve added another park to the list since Dushanbe has so many. This one offers a more Soviet feel. Completed in 1985, Victory Park was built in honour of the Great Patriotic War, 1941-1945.
Dushanbe’s Victory Park is located on the city’s outskirts, so it takes a little more effort to get there. The park is a hilly affair with beautiful trees and manicured flower beds commanding great views across the capital.
The main reason for heading to the park is to visit the impressive Victory Monument, a large square with an inscribed backdrop. There is a vent for the Eternal Flame, which is now only lit during Victory Day on the 8th of May.
Kokhi Navruz (The World’s Largest Tea House)
This monumental building can only be described as palatial. Once named (mistakenly) the World’s Largest Tea House.
The Kokhi Navruz is a massive building, opulently designed, that houses a leisure centre, numerous restaurants, a shopping area, and a cinema and caters for weddings. Visits are by appointment only, and you may need to wait, but it’s worth it. The fantastic onsite guides will show you around the core meeting halls, which are used for hosting foreign dignitaries.
Each room is handcrafted using the finest of materials, and as you pass from room to room, the “wows” will only get louder. And, once again, if you missed it, you can not get a cup of tea here!
Statue of Ismail Samani
Have you ever heard of Ismail Samani? Don’t worry, after a visit to Tajikistan, you will know all there is to know, and it all begins here at the Statue of Ismail Samani.
It’s 13 metres high, set within a 43-meter arc, and if that wasn’t impressive enough, it’s topped with a 10Kg crown made of pure Tajik gold. All this construction is to honour Abu Ibrahim Ismail Ibn Ahmad, better and more easily known as Ismail Samani.
Samani lived from 849 – 907. He was a strong general and an even stronger ruler responsible for uniting the Persian tribes. The statue is an important Dushanbe landmark and a must-see site.
National Museum of Antiquities
It doesn’t get any better than this for history buffs. The National Museum of Antiquities grants a fascinating look back into Tajikistan’s past. The Museum of Antiquities was built for the USSR’s Academy of Sciences and started more as a collection of items for research.
As the collection grew and the Soviet Union collapsed, the National Museum of Antiquities was born. The museum opened its doors to visitors in April 1996.
The museum’s exhibits date from the 4th Millennium B.C. to the beginning of the 20th century. Most visitors call by to see the original 7th century 14 metre long reclining Buddha, although they end up staying longer, marvelling at the other treasures.
Travel
Plane
Many of Tajikistan’s visitors will either arrive or depart the country by plane. Dushanbe International Airport is a small, modern, compact affair.
The airport still has elements of its Soviet past, although recent renovations have banished these to the sidelines. The airport is located incredibly close to Dushanbe – only a 10-15 minutes drive from the city proper. Arriving can always be a bit of a muddle especially as the staff try to keep up with the nation’s ever-changing visa requirements.
Always keep any slips of paper, especially related to luggage, as this will be required on departure.
Train
Not the most common port of entry, although there are train services to some cities and international destinations. The trains in Tajikistan can be a little shabby, and many using the train to explore central Asia will opt to begin their rail adventure in neighbouring Uzbekistan.
Train travel is cheap and always a great way to meet local people; there is a zero-tolerance to alcohol on trains in Tajikistan. One more point of interest is that the train station in Dushanbe still retains a certain amount of its Soviet charm.
Road
More common than one may initially think, Dushanbe is often visited by tourists via bus, car, and bicycle, although not too unbelievable when you realise that Dushanbe is situated at one end of the M41 Pamir Highway, a must-visit for adventure travellers.
Links via road to Dushanbe are good with roads to the south and east servicing the aforementioned Pamir Highway and the Afghan Borderlands whilst northbound roads link up with the Uzbekistan Border and on into the Fann Mountains
5 Top Tips for Dushanbe
Money
When you have the opportunity, make sure to grab some Tajik Somani; many places in Tajikistan will not accept an international credit card, and it’s not uncommon for banks to run out of money (especially during Narvouz). On an organized tour, you shouldn’t need more than 50-100 USD worth of Somani.
Roads
Overall, the roads in Dushanbe are not too bad. Do take care of open manhole covers and other tripping hazards. Also, night driving can get a little dangerous, especially as Dushanbe’s youth head out on the road, appearing to think they are in a Fast and Furious movie.
Taxis
As with other countries in Central Asia, some private cars in Dushanbe will commonly act as a taxi service. These can still be used but always remember: if you don’t feel safe, don’t ride. It’s always safer in two’s. Don’t take these taxis outside of Dushanbe. It’s best not to ride private taxis after dark.
Local People
Make sure to interact with local people in Dushanbe; unlike some countries, Tajiks are genuinely friendly and kind. It can be all too easy to put up the shutters and feel that you’re being cheated, as can happen in many capitals cities, whereas in Dushanbe, it’s the opposite.
Health and Well Being
Do not drink tap water as it is treated differently to your home countries and may cause a bit of a stomach upset. There are many food choices in Dushanbe,Tajik food is delicious, but do ease yourself into the more local street-style options gradually as upset stomachs can be common.
There are medical facilities and pharmacies in the capital, but we strongly recommend bringing your own well-stocked first aid kit for those unwanted eventualities.