Often described as “over-the-top”, “outlandish” and “grandiose” as well as “Pyongyang meets Las Vegas”, the “Pyongyang of Central Asia” and “The Dictator’s Playground”, we at Absolute Nomads prefer the literal translation of Ashgabat, The City of Love.
Ashgabat is a traveller’s dream; yes, it is odd, it is kitsch, and it does have a lot of marbled buildings, but it can be explored on foot, the people are friendly, and it’s super interesting. Don’t believe us? Then read on.
Location
Ashgabat is located in central Turkmenistan, surrounded by Ahal Province, although the city isn’t part of the Province itself. The Turkmen capital is nestled on the foothills of the Kopet Dag mountains which border the city to the south, whilst to the north, the vast, inhospitable Karakum Desert encroaches on Ashgabat.
The notorious Karakum Canal cuts through the marbled metropolis, rerouting water from the Amu Darya river feeding the city and surrounding areas.
History
Long before the city of Ashgabat, there was a small wine-producing village named Konjikala. Like many small settlements in Central Asia, Konjikala would grow into a critical Silk Road settlement. And just like its future incarnation, Ashgabat, it would suffer a devastating earthquake in the 1st century BC.
Konjikala would eventually be snuffed out as the Mongols passed through the region, wreaking death and destruction n on their path to create the world’s largest land empire.
In 1917, the Bolshevik revolution put an end to Imperial Russia, marking the start of a tumultuous time for Ashgabat and the surrounding region. Sensing a weakness in the fledgling Soviet Union, the Mensheviks, Social Revolutionaries, and former officers of the Imperial Russian Army united to conduct a coup, carving out a small region for themselves.
The uprising wasn’t to last and the rebellion was quickly put down and Ashgabat was brought back into the fold of the Soviet Union. It would see its name changed in 1919 to Poltoratsk honouring Pavel Poltoratskiy, the Chairman of the Soviet of National Economy of the Turkestan Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic.
From 1919 until 1927, Poltoratsk would grow to become the capital of the Turkmen SSR before its name was reverted back to Ashgabat, albeit with the more Russian sounding moniker: Ashkhabad.
The city would begin to grow rapidly; the 1930s saw the first tarmacked streets whilst the Second World War saw an influx of refugees from across the Soviet Union. However, on 6th October 1948, Ashgabat experienced one of its worst moments when, at 1:12 am, a massive earthquake rocked the city.
The 7.3 Richter scale earthquake levelled most of the city and claimed the lives of 176,000 residents; so bad was the quake that it was debated whether or not to rebuild.
But the Soviet construction machine went into action and began a massive construction project; a relatively cosmopolitan city was replaced by speedily-built concrete apartments and drab functional office blocks. Over the Soviet period, the work continued, as more and more apartments were built until the collapse of the Soviet Union when in 1991, Ashgabat would see a new lease of life, often known as the ‘Golden Period’.
With the Soviet Union gone, it was time for elections to be held, and in 1992, Saparmurat Atayevich Niyazov, the former Chairman of the Supreme Soviet of the Turkmen SSR, would storm to victory, winning the presidency over zero candidates.
As Niyazov took the country’s reigns, it was out with the old, and in with the new – literally. Most of the ageing grey Soviet block apartments were bulldozed, and new glistening marbled buildings were erected. Any Soviet apartment blocks not demolished were coated in a white marble glaze bringing a strange sparkling uniformity to the centre of the desert.
Added to this construction rush, Niyazov named himself Turkmenbashi (leader of all Turkmens), and Ashgabat saw statues, monuments, and other oddities appear in his honour across the city.
On the 21st December 2006, Turkmenbashi passed away, being followedto power by the national minister of health, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow (a trained dentist). Grandiose construction projects in the city didn’t slow as in recent years a near airport in the shape of a giant falcon has been completed, a stadium topped by a vast horse’s head and palacial looking shopping malls have sprung up, adding to the wonder that is Ashgabat.
What To See In Ashgabat
Ashgabat is a sprawling city, partly because of its earthquake safety measures (buildings must be separated far enough apart so they do not topple onto each other), and there is also the space to expand into the surrounding desert.
For any adventurer journeying into this marbled paradise, there is much more to see than first meets the eye.
Cityscape
Take some time to wander around the city and marvel at its magnificent marbled masterpieces, interspersed with leafy green parks dotted with statues of the Turkmenbashi and brightly lit portraits of the leader.
Berkarar Shopping Mall
One of our top shopping choices, especially during the hot, roasting summer days, the Berkarar Shopping Mall is a giant airconditioned shoppers paradise. Upon approach, it’s tricky to know if you’re entering a palace or a religious building until you swing open the vast glistening doors. Once inside, there is a well-supplied Turkish supermarket, a mix of restaurants from Turkmen classics to burger joints as well as a fun games emporium.
Turkmen Carpet Museum
Known by most Turkmens as the leading authority on the nation’s carpets, this impressive museum is a must if you’re interested in one of Turkmenistan’s main exports (aside from gas). Apart from its extensive collection of Turkmen rugs dating from medieval times, the museum houses the world’s largest hand-woven carpet.
Alem Cultural And Entertainment Center
Known by most visitors as the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel, which is what it is. Although, once there, it’s pretty impressive with an entertainment complex for the youth of Ashgabat, and within the Ferris wheel, a separate pod kitted out with a tv and refrigerator for someone a little more important.
Wedding Palace
Known locally as Baght Koshgi (Palace of Happiness), the Wedding Palace is the place where many locals go to register and celebrate their wedding. Turkmen weddings can be elaborate events with wildly decked out cars and guests eager to enjoy a party. The palace design is a giant globe (with Turkmenistan at its heart) based on and surrounded by the Turkmen eight-pointed star.
Independence Monument
Located in Independence Park, the Independence Monument is one of the city’s main attractions for those in search of Turkmenbashi monuments. Standing 118 metres tall at the southern end of the park, this gleaming monument can’t be missed.
Nicknamed the plunger by some locals, the domed structure is said to represent a local yurt, which is surrounded by notable characters from Turkmen history with the central golden statue on the western side of the moneument a Turkmenbashi himself.
Travel
Plane
Most travellers venturing into Ashgabat will arrive and depart by plane into Ashgabat International Airport.
Renovated and opened in 2013, Ashgabat airport is an elaborate affair in a building shaped in the form of a giant falcon; if you thought that this wasn’t enough, the domestic terminal is shaped like a smaller falcon. Inside the airport, be prepared for the entry and exit process, which can be a little time-consuming and tiresome, especially if arriving before dawn.
Train
It is not the most common form of transoport for visitors to Ashgabat, but if you like train travel, it can be interesting. However, it’s very slow.
The carriages are generally clean, and well-kept. Meals can be brought on board, but there is zero alcohol allowed on board. Ashgabat train station can not be missed as it is crowned by a prominent spire topped with an eight-pointed star (Rub El Hizb).
Car
Entering the city by car from neighbouring countries is slowly becoming more and more common. Remember, when entering Ashgabat, the car must be cleaned at one of the many car cleaning stations at the city limits.
Top 5 Travel Tips
Money
It takes a while to work out the various notes when using Turkmen Manat and even longer working out which exchange rate you’ve used, so take care. If using the official bank rate, things will be costly. If using another rate, then very cheap. Change can also be tricky, so try to hoard those smaller notes for markets and small shops.
Sun Cream
Remember Ashgabat is located in the desert, so it can be incredibly hot. Do not forget a hat and suncream. Trying to find sunscreen in Ashgabat is like finding a dirty car, very difficult. If you do find some, be prepared to pay.
Good Shoes
Ashgabat is a perfect city for exploring on foot, no one will mind, and you can walk for miles marvelling at the impressive architecture. Still, the city is sprawling, so make sure you have footwear that’s well broken in and comfortable.
Remember Where You Are
This is important as it’s easy to forget that Ashgabat may be similar to other cities in Central Asia, but there are some key differences. There are strict rules on photography & smoking is prohibited in open spaces. Turkmens dress and act conservatively, take care and do as the locals do.
Everyones a Taxi
If you’ve gone too far and realise you can’t walk back or you are lost, be sure to take your hotel address or jot down where you need to go; reach out your arm, and a car will stop. The cost will be minimal and you will be transported via private car to your destination.