The name ‘Pyongyang’ (평양) derives from the Chinese characters ‘平壤’ meaning ‘Flat Land’. True to its name, Pyongyang and the surrounding region is relatively level compared to the mountainous terrain which dominates the rest of the country.
Pyongyang has served the capital of North Korea (DPRK) since the formation of the country in 1948. Prior to that between 1945 and 1948, it served as the capital for the Soviet Civil Administration in Korea in the years following the liberation of the country from Japan after the Second World War.
Today, Pyongyang stands as the glittering centrepiece of the DPRK. New developments such as Ryomyong Street and Mirae Scientist’s Street are stunning examples of modernist DPRK architecture.
These modern districts contrast with other parts of the city; the Grand People’s Study House, Pyongyang Grand Theatre and the People’s Palace of Culture stand out for their traditional Korean architecture whilst East Pyongyang’s grey concrete buildings were painted in bright pastel colours in the mid 2000s to brighten up the city.
Monuments to the leadership, party and Juche ideology can be found all over the city, and colourful murals are present on many street corners.
Pyongyang is the beating heart of North Korea. From modern water parks and bowling alleys to ancient gates and grand museums, Pyongyang is definitely worth a visit.
Pyongyang: Early History
The mythical Dangun Dynasty was said to have built its capital, Wanggom, on the site of modern-day Pyongyang. This city would later become the capital of the Gojoson dynasty until 108 BCE.
Following the fall of Gojoson, the northern half of the peninsula came under the control of China’s Han dynasty. During this period, four commanderies were established to control northern Korea; one of these was the Lelang Commandery, the capital of which was Rakrang, a region which since became a district of modern Pyongyang.
From here, the city went through several centuries of change. During this time it served as the capital of the Goguryo Dynasty, fell into disuse under the Silla Dynasty and later rose to prominence as the Western Capital of the Koryo Dynasty.
Below is a rough chronological list of Pyongyang’s status in Korea (? – Present):
- ? – 108 BC: Capital of the Dangun Dynasty & Gojoson Dynasty
- 108 BC – 313: Centre of the Lelang Commandery (China)
- 313 – 427: Formalised as a City (Goguryo Dynasty)
- 427 – 668: Capital of the Goguryo Dynasty
- 668 – 676: Capital of Protectorate General to Pacify the East (China)
- 676 – 918: Fell into Disuse (Silla Dynasty)
- 918 – 1392: Western Capital of the Koryo Dynasty
- 1413 – 1896: Capital of Pyongan Province (Choson Dynasty)
- 1896 – 1945: Capital of S.Pyongan Province (Japanese Occupation)
- 1945 – 1948: Site of the Soviet Civil Administration in Korea
- 1948 – Present: Capital of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea
Pyongyang: Korean War – Present Day
During the initial phase of the Korean War, beginning in June 1950, the northern forces moved quickly south, overrunning the border defences and liberating Seoul within weeks. However, as the tide of the war turned, UN forces began to make up ground and eventually took Pyongyang in October 1950.
Two months later, the UN abandoned the city as part of a wider evacuation of northern Korea in response to China’s People’s Volunteer Army joining the conflict on the northern side and the various battles in the preceding weeks which pushed the UN forces back towards the 38th parallel.
Pyongyang was almost entirely destroyed due to a sustained aerial bombing campaign of the city by the US Air Force. Official damage assessments by the US military suggest up to 75% of the city’s buildings were destroyed during the bombing campaign.
A particularly powerful air strike took place on August 29, 1951 in which the UN forces flew 1,400 sorties over the city. The destruction which took place in Pyongyang was echoed across northern Korea with other cities such as Hamhung, Wonsan and Nampo sustaining similar or worse damage.
Pyongyang: Highlights
Visiting Pyongyang, in itself, is a highlight of any trip to North Korea. Most trips to the country will centre around the capital city since it’s an ideal central location with easy access to most of the country by road, rail or air.
However, that isn’t to say there’s nothing to do in Pyongyang itself, much the opposite. Pyongyang is full of incredible sights ranging from the impressive to the interesting.
Mansudae Grand Monument
The Mansudae Grand Monument is one of 3 monuments in North Korea classified as ‘Grand Monuments’. Located on Mansu Hill in the heart of downtown Pyongyang, these 22-metre bronze statues depict the country’s great leaders; the Eternal President Kim Il Sung stands on the left, the General Kim Jong Il stands on the right. It is customary for visitors to bow and lay flowers at the foot of monument.
Pyongyang Metro
One of the deepest metro networks in the world; the metro system in Pyongyang was constructed between 1965 and 1972 and was built, not just to be functional, but also incredibly beautiful. The Pyongyang metro has become famous for its grand stations, classic-style metro trains and incredible depth. The network is also undergoing modernisation with new trains and more up-to-date technology.
Juche Tower
The Tower of the Juche Idea is perhaps one of the most eye-catching buildings in the city centre. Built in 1982 to commemorate the 70th birthday of President Kim Il Sung, it is symbolic of North Korea’s guiding political ideology; Juche. The tower itself, topped with an enormous glowing red flame to symbolise the Juche idea, provides stunning views over the city in every direction.
Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum
This museum is dedicated to the 1950 – 1953 conflict which saw North Korea and China fight against the United States, United Nations and South Korea.
The war is referred to in North Korea as the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War and the museum hosts a collection of captured US military vehicles, North Korean military vehicles, and an enormous 360-degree panoramic painting depicting the battle of Taejon (complete with sound effects!).
Additionally – the museum is home to the USS Pueblo, a spy ship captured in 1968 by the North Koreans which has become a popular tourist attraction, as well as a symbolic representation of the conflict between the United States and DPRK.
Kim Il Sung Square
Nestled right at the heart of Pyongyang on the banks of the Taedong River, Kim Il Sung Square sits right opposite the Juche Tower which presides over the square from the other side of the river. Kim Il Sung Square is famously the site of North Korea’s signature military parades and rallies. At the head of the square sits the Grand People’s Study House, an enormous public library and education centre, built in traditional Korean style. Also situated on the square are government offices, the National Art Gallery, and the Pyongyang History Museum.
It would be impossible to include all of Pyongyang’s highlights in one blog. From more enormous monuments like the Arch of Triumph or the Monument to the Three Charters of National Reunification, to Moranbong Park where visitors can interact with locals relaxing on their days off work; there’s so much to do in Pyongyang, certainly worth a visit!
Pyongyang: Accommodation
There’s a popular myth that Pyongyang only has one hotel which foreigners can stay in, the Yanggakdo International Hotel, situated on an island in the middle of the Taedong River. However, whilst this hotel does exist, there are plenty of options to choose from around the city. Here are some (but not all) of the options:
Yanggakdo International Hotel
A majority of foreigners visiting Pyongyang stay at the Yanggakdo. The hotel offers incredible views over the city from its rooftop revolving restaurant as well as billiards, bowling, a casino, and much more.
Koryo Hotel
A distinctive twin-towered building in downtown Pyongyang, situated only a short distance from Pyongyang Railway Station, the Koryo Hotel is one of the most regularly visited hotels by foreigners, aside from the Yanggakdo.
Pyongyang Hotel
The Pyongyang Hotel is located in the city centre on the Taedong riverbank. It is the oldest hotel in the capital still in use, although rarely visited by foreign tourists. A great budget option for any visitor to Pyongyang.
Pothonggang Hotel
Situated on the banks of the Pothong River, a tributary of the Taedong. It’s a luxury hotel offering massage, karaoke, saunas, and more along with comfortable rooms. Although smaller, and pricier, than Pyongyang’s most famous hotels, te Pothonggang really is a deluxe option.
Sosan Hotel
This is a really great budget option, this hotel is located on Chongchun Street, also known as Pyongyang’s ‘Sports Street’, in the west of the city. The hotel has a noticeable sports theme, including an on-site gym.
Pyongyang: Transport Links
Pyongyang is the hub of almost all foreign travel to North Korea. You’ll most likely begin your journey into the DPRK by arriving into Pyongyang Railway Station after a long train journey from China, or into Pyongyang Sunan International Airport on an Air Koryo or Air China flight.
Road
From Pyongyang, it’s possible to travel all over the county by road, rail or air. The four major highways out of the capital are;
The Unification Highway – linking Pyongyang with Kaesong and the DMZ, the dividing line between South and North Korea.
The Pyongyang-Nampo Youth Hero Motorway – linking Pyongyang with Nampo at the mouth of the Taedong River.
The Pyongyang-Wonsan Tourist Motorway – linking Pyongyang with the holiday destination and port city of Wonsan on the East Coast.
The Pyongyang-Huichon Expressway – linking Pyongyang with the cities of Pyongsong, Anju and eventually, the Myohyangsan region.
From Wonsan, it’s possible to reach the city of Hamhung and the mountainous Kumgangsan region by road. Similarly, the city of Haeju and much of the country’s South West region is accessible by road from Kaesong.
Rail
As previously mentioned, many foreign visitors enter and leave the country via train between Pyongyang and the Chinese border city of Dandong. However, it’s possible for foreigners to disembark the train before the border to visit the border city of Sinuiju.
Train travel isn’t something that’s readily available to foreigners; despite this, it is one of the most extensive transport networks in the country and regularly used by locals. The longest line in the country stretches from the capital to the city of Rajin on the border with Russia. Foreigners are able to travel this line, disembarking at Rajin to explore the Rason Special Economic Zone before continuing on to Vladivostok, Russia.
Air
It’s possible to fly with Air Koryo domestically between Pyongyang and some of North Korea’s regional airports. In fact, flight is the only way to get to the North East of the country directly from the capital. Air Koryo operates some of these routes as scheduled domestic flights, but others need to be chartered specially for the tour.
Pyongyang Sunan – Samjiyon: The only way to visit Mt. Paektu from Pyongyang. This flight is available as a charter or domestic flight depending on the day of travel.
Pyongyang Sunan – Chongjin Orang: Any visit to Chongjin, the capital of North Hamgyong Province, will likely start with a flight into Orang airport. Also operated as both a charter and domestic flight.
Pyongyang Sunan – Hamhung Sondok: Rarely taken by visitors, this flight is the only way to travel directly between Hamhung and Pyongyang. It’s not especially popular with tourists since a drive from Pyongyang to Hamhung isn’t especially arduous.
Pyongyang Sunan – Wonsan Kalma: This shorter charter flight provides a direct link between the capital and the East Coast. It’s also possible to fly to Wonsan in an Air Koryo helicopter!
How to visit Pyongyang
Every Absolute Nomads group tour to North Korea will spend at least one day in the capital. Check out our Festival Tours for the best experience of Pyongyang. During most national holidays, you might get a chance to see Mass Dance or the Kimilsungia Flower Festival.
Alternatively, contact us to plan an independent tour to North Korea where we can produce a custom itinerary for you tailored to your specific requirements. This option ensures you’ll get to see everything you want to see in Pyongyang.